French Polynesia

French Polynesia feels shaped by myth as much as geography. Volcanic peaks, blue lagoons, coral motus and Polynesian traditions create an island world where remoteness, romance and cultural identity are inseparable.

French Polynesia is an overseas collectivity of France made up of five archipelagos: the Society Islands, the Tuamotus, the Marquesas, the Australs and the Gambier. Tahiti, the largest island, holds the capital Papeete and the international airport; from there short flights reach Moorea, Bora Bora, Huahine, Raiatea and Taha’a in the Society group, and the vast coral rings of Rangiroa and Fakarava in the Tuamotus.

Polynesian culture is visible everywhere: in the marae, the stone temple platforms, above all Taputapuatea on Raiatea, now a UNESCO site; in the tattoo tradition, revived since the 1980s; in outrigger canoes and the dances of the Heiva. Gauguin and Brel are buried on Hiva Oa in the Marquesas, and the further islands still feel at the very edge of the map.

The dry season runs from May to October, with steady trade winds, lower humidity and temperatures in the mid-twenties — the most comfortable months for lagoon life and for the Marquesas. November to April is warmer and wetter, with short tropical downpours and heavier air, though sunny days remain frequent and the islands are quieter.

July belongs to the Heiva i Tahiti, the great festival of Polynesian dance, song, canoe racing and traditional sports, held in Papeete since 1881. Humpback whales come to calve off Moorea, Tahiti and Rurutu from roughly August to October, and the Hawaiki Nui Va’a canoe race links the Leeward Islands in late October or early November.

Bora Bora remains the centre of Polynesian luxury, its villas over the lagoon looking back to Mount Otemanu. Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora stands on Motu Tehotu, The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort on Motu Ome’e, Conrad Bora Bora Nui on Motu To’opua and InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa on Motu Piti Aau. North of Tahiti, The Brando occupies Tetiaroa, the atoll Marlon Brando acquired in the 1960s.

Many travellers begin on Tahiti or Moorea and end on Bora Bora, or add an atoll of the Tuamotus for diving. LVXVRY books the four Bora Bora resorts through Four Seasons Preferred Partner, Marriott STARS & Luminous, Hilton for Luxury and IHG Destined — at the official hotel rate, with the privileges each programme attaches to the stay. For The Brando, LVXVRY advises on and arranges the stay.